Ever since certain SJMC Japan students found out that they would be getting the opportunity to visit the city of Kyoto, they knew that they wanted to check out and explore the music scene of this wonderful city.
Kyoto is considered to be the heartland of Japan’s oldest and most traditional music. Music performed with kotos, shamisens and hichirikis. These traditions are still active through concerts, temple performances and workshops, keeping the city’s musical history alive.
Beyond tradition, Kyoto has become a very popular hotspot for live music. It is well known for everything from jazz clubs like Zac Baran to experimental venues like Jittoku and Gorey Cafe.
The standout for some students was the jazz scene in the city, with it being a bit smaller than Tokyo but all the more intimate and impactful. Jazz can be heard all throughout the city, from walking down busy streets as you do to some shopping to jazz clubs as well as record lounges.
Zac Baran was the jazz club that some SJMC Japan students have had their eye on for the last couple of months leading up to the trip. They heard about the lounge-like atmosphere, but what really drew their attention to the place was the live music being promoted throughout social media.
All of the students also really enjoyed the sound of Café Rokudenashi, which they also found online as they researched places with music. This place was just a bit different and unique in its own way. It is known for its small location but it is very much welcoming as well having a cozy environment. It has a wide selection of jazz vinyl records on the walls with soothing crackles and pops from the record player.
The students had a hard time deciding which place to go to for their assignments. Naturally, most people gravitated towards live music as they knew it would be a different experience. I was interested to hear the different styles of play and techniques used in Japan compared to the musicians in the U.S. and Mexico. Little did we know, we were in for a bit of a surprise.
The group of students decided to visit Zac Baran as they talked it over during the farewell dinner in Kyoto. It was the students’ last night in Kyoto together so they knew they wanted to end it off with a bang. They agreed that live music in Japan was the way to go.
After dinner, they headed off to Zac Baran, talking about their anticipation on the bus ride. Some students thought it would be slow jazz with flutes while others were picturing more of a fast-paced vibe, like the styles back in the U.S.
To their surprise, they heard a good mix of both by the time they arrived at the door. They heard a classic rag-time style as they walked in, and they saw the musicians on a small stage by the entrance. They were greeted by the man working the place who seemed to be alone, but he told the students that they didn’t allow video or recording. They took their seats at a table in the center of the place.
This jazz studio had a rustic wooden look on the inside with a nice cozy and warm vibe as well. The musicians were a small group of foreign musicians with guitar, a bass, piano and drums. The students mentioned that it was really amazing to hear live music in Japan,and getting to hear a group of musicians during their thing at a lounge in this environment was a different experience. Unfortunately, the students arrived just as the musicians’ set was about to end. They heard about one full song not knowing that their set was pretty early in the night.
Although the place wasn’t set to close until 11 p.m., this little hiccup wasn’t going to take the students out of enjoying their last night in Kyoto. Zac Baran is a very nice and fine establishment, but unfortunately, the students really didn’t get to experience all of its glory.
SJMC Japan student Taylor Carrasco mentioned that Café Rokudenashi was still open and that they had their records spinning all night long. They wasted no time and caught the next bus there.
As the students arrived at the café, they were surprised to find that it was very hidden. Between two buildings, there was a flight of stairs, marking the way to the main entrance. As the students walked up the narrow stairs, they wondered if it would be busy with people and if they would be allowed.
As I pulled the door handle, it revealed the sounds of smooth jazz with faint smoke circling its way out the door. They students were greeted right away with happy smiles and were told to sit at the only available seats.
Café Rokudenashi is just one small hallway with chairs along the walls and the small bar, but this place has such a charm that is just indescribable. The faint dim light makes you just want to relax, as the sounds of classic jazz records fill the room. It is like a small piece of home in the center of Kyoto.
The hospitality was also unmatched,with the workers wanting to start friendly conversations with the students, even letting them know that they were in one of the oldest jazz kissas (listening cafés) in the Kyoto area.
Café Rokudenashi first opened its atmospheric doors in 1978, and it has been serving vinyl enthusiasts for nearly 50 years. The students also came to find out that it is also a place where a variety of musicians come to unwind in their spare time.
The worker talked to a man who was sitting near me. As they talked, the worker turned behind him to grab a classic Nina Simone cover record, “Here Comes The Sun.” The man nodded and the worker pulled the vinyl out from its sleeve and laid it on the record player. He moved the needle slowly and steadily, and as his hand went down, the magical pop of the needle making contact with the record was made.
As the first track started, the man looked over me and asked where we were from. I explained we were Texas State students and that we were studying abroad in Japan. The man had a surprised look on his face and shared that he thought that it sounded like a really good opportunity for the students.
I agreed and explained that the students are each writing travel stories, describing what we see and come across in Japan. The man’s face became more surprised with him even smiling after what he just heard.
He asked if there was a way to read these blogs and he asked what the students have come across so far.
“We have actually seen Daibutsu, Kiyomizu-Dera, The Genbaku Dome and many other landmarks throughout Tokyo, Hiroshima and Kyoto,” Carrasco said. The man seemed happy to hear.
I provided him with a link to SJMC Japan’s website. The man then introduced himself as Rei and shook our hands with a smile on his face. Rei-san began to read through some stories, and he said that he enjoyed what he was reading. Rei-san congratulated the students for their works and saved the website to read more later.
The students were happy that a local from Kyoto enjoyed what they were writing about, and it became the highlight of their night.
Rei-san explained that he is a DJ at “Good Morning Record Bar” and has been a regular at Rokudenashi since he was young. He talked to the students about how this place would be so underground, that they weren’t used to seeing foreigners until recently, but that he was happy that the students stumbled across it.
As the night went on, Rei-san and I discussed music and even showed each other our own works in the music scene. With Rei-san showing me videos from his DJ gigs, and Gonzalez showing Rei-san videos from his gigs with his Regional Mexican group.
They exchanged information and complemented each other for their sounds and accomplishments in music so far. The students soon shook hands for one final time and said their goodbyes to Rei-san and Café Rokudenashi.
As the Nina Simone record was coming to an end, the students walked to the door for one last goodbye. The students turned and collectively said one last, “Arigatō gozaimasu.” As they walked out, they all knew that this was the best final night in Kyoto that they could’ve had.
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